Installing XJ Trackbar bushings

Installing Jeep Cherokee XJ Track bar bushings Replacing the bushings on the front track bar may quiet some noises, and will assure many more years of carefree riding. The set from Energy Suspension includes two half-bushings and a center sleeve for the axle end of the track bar, and a dust shield boot for the frame end. The set costs about $ 7.50. If you have a ZJ Grand Cherokee, or a TJ Wrangler, you should have the same setup for track bars.

Tools needed: - 15mm & 19mm sockets and regular/long handle wrench - tie rod separator (for the frame-mounted ball-joint end) - big hammer - grease (loose & grease gun) - floor jack (the bigger the better) - breaker bar - medium-size replacement cotter pin (for frame mount end) - Propane torch or similar - Misc screwdrivers (for prying - you don't need them for tightening)
- Dikes or other cutting tool - Torque wrench - Hacksaw - Needle nose pliers - Long, heavy zip tie
Note: Set the parking brake and chock the wheels, but no need to jack the Jeep
Steps:
(1) Loosen the track bar With the 15mm socket, loosen the axle end, but leave the bolt in place. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the frame mount with the 19mm socket.

(2) Separate the track bar at the frame mount Using the tie-rod separator, you'll need to bang on it a LOT - it's a tight fit. Don't worry about destroying the grease seal, since it'll be replaced. Turning the wheels out to the left will give you more room to swing.

(3) Remove the bolt holding the track bar at the axle

(4) Remove the frame end grease seal. You may have to use dikes to cut the seal open, then cut the metal strips holding the seal together. The factory seal may be slightly better than the urethane replacement, but at least you'll never have to replace the urethane, since it shouldn't ever wear out (rot).

(5) Remove the axle end bushing. The factory bushing is vulcanized in place, so use a propane torch and burn the old rubber out, scraping & poking with a long screwdriver. There are two metal inserts, and for each, heat the insert until the rubber catches, expands, and literally expels the sleeve.

(6) Remove the axle end press-fit insert. The factory bushing uses a thin, but very tough, piece of metal pressed into the end. The urethane bushings won't fit with the factory insert, so it has to go. By opening the hacksaw, inserting the blade and reattaching it, you can saw through in two places, then pound a screwdriver into the section between. You probably want to use an old screwdriver for this, then give it a twist and work the section out. The liner will drop loose.

(7) Install urethane bushings. Clean everything up before doing this, and grease the axle mount end heavily.

(8) Install track bar. If the frame mount bolt won't seat easily by hand, a big floor jack is handy to press it into place. The axle mount end might take a bit of prying and pounding, but it usually goes pretty smoothly.

(9) Torque to specs. Haynes says the axle mount end should be torqued to 74 ft-lbs, and the frame mount end to 62 ft-lbs.

(10) Install new cotter pin at frame mount. All told, this will take most of an afternoon. It won't necessarily make much of a difference in handling, which is what you might have wanted the urethane bushings for. At least now you' won't have to replace them later. And you'll have more nifty red urethane bushings under your Jeep.